Tub-to-Shower Conversion Cost
Most tub-to-shower conversions land between $5,000 and $12,000. The reason quotes come back so far apart is that four separate decisions are hiding inside that one job, and two of them can double the number.
The short answer
A one-day acrylic liner system runs about $4,000 to $9,000. A standard tiled conversion runs about $5,000 to $12,000. A curbless, roll-in conversion starts near $12,000 and can pass $25,000 because it is structural work rather than finish work. These are planning ranges drawn from published contractor and franchise pricing as of August 2026, and no article can quote your bathroom. Anyone who gives you a firm price without seeing the floor is guessing.
The three ways this gets done
One-day liner system
$4,000 to $9,000
- What it is
- An acrylic shower pan and wall surround fitted over the existing tub footprint by a franchise installer. Bath Fitter and Re-Bath are the two names most people encounter.
- When it fits
- The existing plumbing and drain stay where they are, the walls behind are sound, and the goal is a safe step-in fast.
- What to watch
- It covers rather than replaces. Anything wrong behind the surround stays behind the surround, and pricing is quoted in-home rather than published.
Standard tiled conversion
$5,000 to $12,000
- What it is
- The tub comes out, the opening is reframed, a shower pan or mud base goes in, and the walls are tiled. Usually five to seven working days.
- When it fits
- You want a permanent result, a bench, a proper niche, and control over how it looks.
- What to watch
- The drain almost always has to move, which means opening the floor. That is the line where the price jumps.
Curbless, roll-in conversion
$12,000 to $25,000+
- What it is
- A zero-threshold entry. The subfloor is recessed or the whole bathroom floor is built up so the shower floor sits level with the room.
- When it fits
- A wheelchair or a walker has to get in, or you are planning for the possibility that it will.
- What to watch
- It is structural. Joists may need sistering or a sleeper floor, and this is the tier where a permit and an inspection are usual.
The four decisions that move the price
- 1
Does the drain move?
A tub drain sits at one end. A shower drain sits in the middle. If the new layout needs the drain relocated, the floor gets opened and a plumber gets involved, and that single decision is usually worth several thousand dollars. Some liner systems are designed specifically to avoid it.
- 2
Liner over the top, or tile from scratch?
A liner is fast and predictable and covers what is behind it. Tile is slower, costs more, lasts longer and lets you put a bench, a niche and blocking exactly where they should go. Neither is wrong. They answer different questions.
- 3
Curb, or curbless?
A low curb is cheap and stops water. Curbless means no lip at all, which is what a wheelchair or a walker needs, and it means changing the floor structure. This is the biggest single jump on the whole list.
- 4
Does the wall open anyway?
If it does, that is the moment to add blocking for grab bars, move a valve to a reachable height, and run power for better light. Doing any of it later means opening the wall a second time.
This is not a good DIY job
Pulling the old tub out is genuinely doable if you are careful and have help carrying it. Almost everything after that is not, and the reasons are specific rather than general.
Moving a drain is inspected work. Relocating a shower drain is plumbing that gets permitted and inspected in most jurisdictions. An unpermitted change surfaces later, at sale.
Waterproofing is the step that fails quietly. A pan or membrane that leaks does not show up as a leak. It shows up years later as a soft floor, and by then the repair is the framing, not the shower.
Blocking has to go in while the wall is open. A grab bar anchored into drywall is not a grab bar. Solid backing behind the tile is a ten-minute job during the build and a wall demolition afterwards.
Curbless is framing. Recessing a subfloor between joists changes how the floor carries load. That is structural work and it belongs to someone who does it for a living.
Before you take a quote
Conversions are sold in the home, often at the kitchen table, and the quote you get depends heavily on how well you can describe the job. Knowing which of the four decisions above applies to your bathroom is what stops a $6,000 job being priced as a $15,000 one.
What to ask a bathroom contractorCommon questions
- How much does it cost to convert a tub to a shower?
- Most conversions land between $5,000 and $12,000 for a standard tiled job. A one-day acrylic liner system fitted over the existing footprint typically runs $4,000 to $9,000. A curbless roll-in conversion, which is structural work, starts around $12,000 and can pass $25,000. The single biggest swing factor is whether the drain has to move.
- Why is a curbless shower so much more expensive?
- Because the floor has to change. A curbless entry needs the shower floor level with the bathroom floor, which means either recessing the subfloor between the joists or raising the entire bathroom floor to meet it. Both are framing jobs, both affect the door and the transition to the hallway, and both usually need a permit. A curbed shower sits on top of the existing floor and avoids all of it.
- Does removing the only bathtub hurt resale value?
- It can, in a house with only one bathroom, because a share of buyers with young children want a tub. In a house with two or more bathrooms, converting one and leaving a tub in the other avoids the issue entirely. Weigh that against the fact that stepping over a tub wall is one of the most common ways people fall at home.
- Can I convert a tub to a shower myself?
- Demolition, yes, if you are careful. The rest, mostly no. Moving a drain is plumbing work that gets inspected in most jurisdictions, waterproofing a shower pan is the step that quietly fails and rots a floor over years, and blocking for a grab bar has to go in while the wall is open. This is a job where the expensive mistakes are invisible until they are not.
- How long does a tub-to-shower conversion take?
- A one-day liner system is normally a single day, which is the entire point of it. A standard tiled conversion runs five to seven working days, including tile cure time. A curbless conversion takes two to three weeks because framing, inspection and waterproofing all have to happen in sequence.
- Should I add grab bars during the conversion?
- Yes, and specifically ask for solid wood blocking behind the tile while the wall is open. Blocking costs almost nothing at that moment and means a grab bar can later be mounted anywhere on that wall rather than only where a stud happens to land. Retrofitting blocking afterwards means opening the wall again.
The part you can buy today
Getting an accurate quote starts with your own measurements. These are the tools for that, plus the two items most people add to a new shower anyway.

Stanley PowerLock 25 ft Tape Measure
25 ft, 1 in blade
Measures the rise, the doorway and the run. Every quote asks for these numbers.
Check price on Amazon
Franklin Sensors ProSensor Stud Finder
9 sensors, shows full stud width
Shows where the wood is behind the wall. A grab bar has to land on it.
Check price on Amazon
OTHWAY Non-Slip Bath Tub Mat
198 suction cups, 360 drain holes
Grips the tub floor so it does not slide. Water drains through it.
Check price on Amazon
Moen Handshower with 24 in Slide Bar
24 in slide bar, 69 in hose
A shower head you hold, on a bar you can move. Works sitting down.
Check price on Amazon
These are supplies, not the job itself. Amazon does not sell the labour, the permit or the inspection.
Taking the tub out is the easy half. What makes the replacement safe is covered in walk-in showers for seniors.
